First Impressions • Balenciaga Fall 2010

Nicolas Ghesquière's Fall collection for Balenciaga left a lasting impression on my mind. The collection is very now, but his muse is somewhere along the speed of light. A parallel universe where we will travel to next September. A world that seems efficient and mechanical, but humanly intact and alluring. Where, the inhabitants are remarkably intriguing. I can't help wonder about their cultural influences and their society as a whole. I am so curious about how they go about their everyday lives. And in observing the wonderfully detailed clothing that Mr. Ghesquière proposes, I wonder what has brought them there. Perhaps, something that we did here on earth? What is their story?

With techno fabrics, quilting of various types, fur, patch work, and netting, Mr. Ghesquière lays out how his muse protects herself from the cold in this far-off environment. The presence of netted accents (on coats and as tops) inspires me to think of a symbolic network that represents our universe. The total black look above, with its exquisite and intricate detailing, being the mysterious black hole that sucks us all in. Oh, this look is perfection!

Honeycomb, diamonds and cellular motifs further the network theme. In fact, they seem to represent the different tribes that make up this region of the solar system. The elegant, tear drop look above is one of the many offered cocktail and evening selections.

The last pieces of the show offer a glimpse into what may have brought these "angels" (a lot of my friends described them as such) to their faraway habitat. There was one look worn by Freja Beha Erichsen that was reminiscent of a ski jumpsuit that zipped open to expose its newspaper-style printed insulation- the phrase atomic park standing out in the clipping. A reference to what occurred? Maybe so? But whatever the message, its execution is undeniable clever as it seems as if these "angels" wear their story close to their skin.

First Impressions • YSL Fall 2010

My first impression of Stefano Pilati's Fall 2010 Yves Saint Laurent collection was pretty hilarious. It occurred while riding in a taxi with my dear friend Kenya and a new and dear friend, Claire of The Fashion Bomb. I had picked up the two gorgeous ladies post show at the Grand Palais. Super-curious to learn what Mr. Pilati had proposed, I greeted them with a line of questions. A summary of the responses: Kenya: Austere, covered up, and plastic capes. Claire: References to the habit. My conclusion: Hmm, a fashionable nun with a prophylactic cape. What is Stefano trying to protect us from? I know, totally crazy right? But, that day had been a particularly cold day in Paris; and I guess my mind had been trying to absorb all of the recent natural disasters. The plastic cape seemed like the most appropriate and fashionable means of self-preservation.

After viewing the collection on style.com, I was able to confirm the observations of my two fashionable taxi companions. The collection is indeed a nod to austerity with a theme of rigid covering. And there is an allusion to the habit by the way of layering two of the collection's key pieces, the floppy hat and the cape. Plus, the gold chains worn by the models are reminiscent of the rosaries worn by nuns- on a larger and more material scale of course. In style.com's video coverage of the show, Mr. Pilati shares that he had been flipping through magazines from the seventies and cut out all the YSL images and had them made into medallions. So my theory is that with his pseudo-order of seventies-styled nuns, Mr. Pilati is playing homage to and guarding the heritage of the label's founder. It would be a lovely gesture given that the Yves Saint Laurent Retrospective opened a few days after the runway show, and just across the street at the Petit Palais.

And the plastic cape? It's fashionable and fierce! And since we have once again become fur friendly, it is a genius way to protect not only ourselves, as Mr. Pilati notes in the style.com video, but also our sable.

Accessories note: I love these electric blue, mohawk pumps. On the list!

**All images courtesy of style.com**

First Impressions • Celine Fall 2010

Images courtesy of style.com

As with her Spring 2010 collection, Phoebe Philo's muse for her Celine Fall 2010 collection is ahead of the fashion curve. She is the girl that a part of us all wishes to be. Her style is simple, confident and challenges conventional notions of what is sexy; and when she embraces trends, it is within her own parameters.

With this new collection, Pheobe plays close to attention to detail and craftsmanship- key characteristics that define the current direction of the luxury goods market. The most exquisite elements include the placement of pockets on outerwear, blouses, skirts and dresses; shirt tails; stand-up collars on coats; raw edges on silk blouses; and rounded collars and collar pins on shirts. The palette of the collection is one of pure refinement: chic navy and black, classic cream and black and authoritative army greens.

The draping and cut of each garment is immaculate! Abundant in separates, there are great cropped pants; tons of stunning outerwear- of note a striking military-inspired, leather coat that is slicker than an oil spill; hipster leather skirts; and chunky, fold-over turtleneck vests.

Phoebe's concept of sexy is suggestive and European-matter-of-factly. It's very mature, liberating. We don't blush or turn our eyes away. The leather t-shirts attract and maintain the gaze of the eye. Whatever your thoughts are about what's underneath, they are wholly yours. The sheer fitted turtleneck with slim break-away skirt? Perfection, and don't even think about adding a bra.